{"id":20121,"date":"2015-07-01T17:29:01","date_gmt":"2015-07-01T14:29:01","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/bilimvegelecek.com.tr\/?p=20121"},"modified":"2018-02-21T17:43:35","modified_gmt":"2018-02-21T14:43:35","slug":"bir-tarihcinin-berlin-gezisinden-notlar","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/bilimvegelecek.com.tr\/index.php\/2015\/07\/01\/bir-tarihcinin-berlin-gezisinden-notlar","title":{"rendered":"Bir tarih\u00e7inin Berlin gezisinden notlar"},"content":{"rendered":"

Berlin bir m\u00fczeler kenti. Bergama M\u00fczesi (Pergamon Museum) ile Alman Tarih M\u00fczesi (Deutsches Historisches Museum), Prusyal\u0131 \u00fcnl\u00fc tarih\u00e7i Ranke\u2019nin kurdu\u011fu Alexanderplatz\u2019daki m\u00fczeler adas\u0131 (Museumsinsel) i\u00e7inde, sanki birbirlerine s\u0131rt vermi\u015f gibiler. Spree Nehri, bu iki ve ba\u015fka b\u00fcy\u00fck m\u00fczelerin yerle\u015fti\u011fi, 1999 y\u0131l\u0131nda UNESCO\u2019nun D\u00fcnya Miras\u0131 Listesi\u2019ne dahil etti\u011fi aday\u0131 \u00e7evreliyor. <\/em><\/p>\n

Dr. H\u00fcseyin Y\u0131ld\u0131r\u0131m\u2019\u0131n an\u0131s\u0131na\u2026 <\/em>(1)<\/p>\n

Akademik bir etkinli\u011fe kat\u0131lmak i\u00e7in veya turist olarak gidip gezdi\u011fim baz\u0131 \u00fclke ve kentlerle ilgili g\u00f6zlemlerimi daha \u00f6nce de yay\u0131mlam\u0131\u015ft\u0131m. (2) Nisan ay\u0131n\u0131n son haftas\u0131n\u0131, Zentrum Moderner Orient\u2019te (3) doktora sonras\u0131 \u00e7al\u0131\u015fmalar yapmakta olan eski bir \u00f6\u011frencim, Ufuk Adak\u2019\u0131n davetlisi olarak Berlin\u2019de ge\u00e7irdim.<\/p>\n

Re\u015fat Nuri G\u00fcntekin, roman t\u00fcr\u00fcnde olmayan bir kitab\u0131nda, gezileri s\u0131ras\u0131nda istasyonda tren, otelinde uyku veya yolculuk etmekte oldu\u011fu arac\u0131n tamirini beklerken, \u201cvakit \u00f6ld\u00fcrmek i\u00e7in icat etti\u011fim \u00e7arelerden biri de, elime ge\u00e7en bir k\u00e2\u011f\u0131t par\u00e7as\u0131na yollarda g\u00f6rd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcm \u00f6teberiyi karmakar\u0131\u015f\u0131k not etmektir\u201d diye yazm\u0131\u015f. (4) Benim amac\u0131m farkl\u0131: G\u00f6zlemlerimden hareketle yazacaklar\u0131m\u0131n, kendimden ba\u015fkalar\u0131 i\u00e7in de anlaml\u0131 olaca\u011f\u0131 d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcncesiyle gezilerim s\u0131ras\u0131nda g\u00fcnl\u00fck tutuyorum. Birazdan okuyacaklar\u0131n\u0131z, Berlin\u2019de tuttu\u011fum g\u00fcnl\u00fckten \u00e7\u0131kar\u0131p geli\u015ftirdi\u011fim notlard\u0131r.<\/p>\n

Sabahlar\u0131 b\u00fclb\u00fcl sesiyle uyanmak<\/strong><\/p>\n

Bindi\u011fim u\u00e7ak Tegel Havaalan\u0131\u2019na inerken camdan g\u00f6r\u00fcnen, bir \u00f6rnek apartmanlar ve bah\u00e7eli evler aras\u0131na serilmi\u015f ye\u015fil bir \u00f6rt\u00fcyd\u00fc. Wilmersdorf semtindeki bir apartman\u0131n be\u015finci kat\u0131nda, k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck bir dairede kal\u0131yoruz. Sabahlar\u0131 balkondan bakt\u0131\u011f\u0131mda, oradan oraya ko\u015fu\u015fan tav\u015fan ve sincaplar g\u00f6r\u00fcyorum. Berlin\u2019in parklar\u0131 ve koruluk benzeri mezarl\u0131klar\u0131nda (5) g\u00f6z\u00fcme ili\u015fen yaban domuzu ve tilkilerle \u015fafa\u011f\u0131n s\u00f6kmesine ramak kala i\u015fitti\u011fim b\u00fclb\u00fcl seslerini de unutmam m\u00fcmk\u00fcn de\u011fil. Bu nedenle Avrupa\u2019n\u0131n en b\u00fcy\u00fck hayvanat bah\u00e7elerinden birinin (Zoo Berlin) Berlin\u2019de kurulmu\u015f olmas\u0131n\u0131 hi\u00e7 yad\u0131rgamad\u0131m. Giri\u015f i\u00e7in 13 Avro \u00f6d\u00fcyorsunuz ama son kuru\u015funa kadar de\u011fer.<\/p>\n

Elde kalan bir avu\u00e7 ye\u015filin yanda\u015f sermayeye pe\u015fke\u015f \u00e7ekildi\u011fi, s\u00fcs havuzlar\u0131ndaki \u00f6rdek ve kazlar\u0131n kesilip t\u00fcketildi\u011fi, kendi habitat\u0131nda ay\u0131lar\u0131n zevk i\u00e7in d\u00f6v\u00fclerek \u00f6ld\u00fcr\u00fcld\u00fc\u011f\u00fc T\u00fcrkiye\u2019de, sakinleri do\u011fa ve bile\u015fenleriyle bar\u0131\u015f\u0131k bir kentimiz var m\u0131 diye d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnmeden edemiyorum.<\/p>\n

Kamusal alan\u0131n temizli\u011fi<\/strong><\/p>\n

Avrupa\u2019n\u0131n bir\u00e7ok kentinde oldu\u011fu gibi, Berlin\u2019de de ba\u015f\u0131bo\u015f kedi-k\u00f6pe\u011fe rastlaman\u0131z m\u00fcmk\u00fcn de\u011fil. (6) Tasmayla dola\u015ft\u0131r\u0131lan bu t\u00fcr sahipli hayvanlar\u0131n kirletti\u011fi birka\u00e7 sokak ad\u0131mlasam da, ya\u015famakta oldu\u011fum \u0130zmir\u2019in sokaklar\u0131na, ba\u015f\u0131bo\u015f kedi-k\u00f6pekler i\u00e7in b\u0131rak\u0131lm\u0131\u015f\/d\u00f6k\u00fclm\u00fc\u015f yemek art\u0131klar\u0131 ve yaz aylar\u0131nda bundan kaynaklanan pis koku ve ha\u015farat bask\u0131s\u0131 akl\u0131ma gelince, g\u00f6rd\u00fcklerimi unutuyorum. Berlin\u2019de \u00e7ok say\u0131da insan, toplu ta\u015f\u0131ma ara\u00e7lar\u0131nda bira t\u00fcketerek seyahat ediyor. (7) Bir ak\u015fam metroda, burnumuzun dire\u011fini s\u0131zlatan bir \u00fcre kokusuna maruz kal\u0131yoruz. Neyse ki, sonraki istasyonda bindi\u011fimiz vagonu, ba\u015fkalar\u0131yla g\u00f6z temas\u0131 kurmaktan ka\u00e7\u0131nan olas\u0131 su\u00e7 failiyle ba\u015f ba\u015fa b\u0131rakarak terk ediyoruz.<\/p>\n

Ula\u015f\u0131m\u0131n Truva At\u0131: Berlin Metrosu<\/strong><\/p>\n

Bir b\u00fcy\u00fck \u015fehirde olmas\u0131 beklenen her ula\u015f\u0131m arac\u0131 var Berlin\u2019de: Metro, otob\u00fcs, tramvay, taksi ve vapur. Sadece turistik ama\u00e7lar i\u00e7in kullan\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131 anla\u015f\u0131lan vapuru bir kenara b\u0131rakacak olursak, bu ara\u00e7lar\u0131n en \u00f6nemlisi, \u00e7ok say\u0131da hatt\u0131yla kenti daha \u00e7ok yer alt\u0131ndan dola\u015fan metro (U-Bahn). Hizmete a\u00e7\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131 1902 y\u0131l\u0131ndan bu yana b\u00fcy\u00fcyen Berlin Metrosu\u2019nda, sar\u0131ya boyanm\u0131\u015f vagonlar\u0131n camlar\u0131n\u0131, Brandenburg Kap\u0131s\u0131\u2019n\u0131n beyaz \u00e7\u0131kartmalar\u0131 s\u00fcsl\u00fcyor. T\u00fcrkiye\u2019de siyaset yapanlar\u0131n, her se\u00e7im d\u00f6neminde h\u0131zl\u0131 tren ve\/veya metroyu vaat etmeleri dolay\u0131s\u0131yla toplu ta\u015f\u0131ma konusundaki geri kalm\u0131\u015fl\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z\u0131 an\u0131ms\u0131yorum. (8)<\/p>\n

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Berlin Duvar\u0131\u2019ndan bir par\u00e7a.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Alman Tarih M\u00fczesi\u2019nde bir g\u00fcn<\/strong><\/p>\n

Berlin bir m\u00fczeler kenti. Tamam\u0131n\u0131 gezmeye ne niyetimiz, ne de zaman\u0131m\u0131z var. Bergama M\u00fczesi (Pergamon Museum) (9) ile Alman Tarih M\u00fczesi (Deutsches Historisches Museum), Prusyal\u0131 \u00fcnl\u00fc tarih\u00e7i Ranke\u2019nin kurdu\u011fu Alexanderplatz\u2019daki m\u00fczeler adas\u0131 (Museumsinsel) i\u00e7inde, sanki birbirlerine s\u0131rt vermi\u015f gibiler. Spree Nehri, bu iki ve ba\u015fka b\u00fcy\u00fck m\u00fczelerin yerle\u015fti\u011fi, 1999 y\u0131l\u0131nda UNESCO\u2019nun D\u00fcnya Miras\u0131 Listesi\u2019ne dahil etti\u011fi aday\u0131 \u00e7evreliyor. Son d\u00f6rt-be\u015f y\u0131ld\u0131r, kent m\u00fczecili\u011fi de yapan bir akademisyen olarak (10), buray\u0131 gezmeyi \u00e7ok istiyordum.<\/p>\n

Nihayet, Alman Tarih M\u00fczesi\u2019nin y\u00fcksek tavanl\u0131 b\u00fcy\u00fck giri\u015f hol\u00fcndeyiz. Ki\u015fi ba\u015f\u0131na 9 Avro verip biletlerimizi al\u0131yoruz. \u00c7ok say\u0131da heykel ve b\u00fcst\u00fcn s\u00fcsledi\u011fi holde, en az \u00fc\u00e7 metre y\u00fcksekli\u011finde bronz bir Lenin heykeli dikkatimizi \u00e7ekiyor. Yakla\u015f\u0131yoruz ve heykelin Alman Ordusu taraf\u0131ndan, \u0130kinci D\u00fcnya Sava\u015f\u0131 s\u0131ras\u0131nda, Sovyetler Birli\u011fi\u2019nden getirilmi\u015f bir ganimet oldu\u011funu \u00f6\u011freniyoruz. (11)<\/p>\n

Alman tarihini ge\u00e7mi\u015ften bug\u00fcne anlatan galeriler; g\u00f6rsel, i\u015fitsel ve okunur bir ziyafet sunuyor. De\u011fi\u015fik t\u00fcrde binlerce obje ve belgeyle ku\u015fat\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131z hissine kap\u0131l\u0131yorsunuz. Genel olarak sergileme ba\u015far\u0131l\u0131 ama m\u00fcze \u00e7al\u0131\u015fanlar\u0131n\u0131n neredeyse hi\u00e7 \u0130ngilizce bilmiyor olu\u015fu ve Almancadan ba\u015fka dillerde bas\u0131lm\u0131\u015f m\u00fcze bro\u015f\u00fcrlerinin azl\u0131\u011f\u0131 ciddi bir s\u0131k\u0131nt\u0131. Etnografya, sava\u015f ve sanat m\u00fczelerini birle\u015ftiren Alman Tarih M\u00fczesi\u2019nde, Viyana ku\u015fatmas\u0131ndan miras Osmanl\u0131 eserleri de sergileniyor.<\/p>\n

So\u011fuk Sava\u015f d\u00f6neminde, Bat\u0131 Almanya\u2019n\u0131n radikal sol \u00f6rg\u00fctlerinden K\u0131z\u0131l Ordu Fraksiyonu\u2019nuyla ilgili bir sergiyi de (RAF-Terroristische Gewalt) g\u00f6rme f\u0131rsat\u0131 bulduk M\u00fcze\u2019de. \u00c7ok say\u0131da \u00f6ld\u00fcrme ve yaralamadan sorumlu bu \u00f6rg\u00fcte ait yay\u0131mlanmam\u0131\u015f film, foto\u011fraf ve ill\u00fcstrasyonlarla desteklenmi\u015f sergi b\u00fcy\u00fcleyiciydi. Bir m\u00fczenin, \u00f6zellikle bulundu\u011fu kentte ya\u015fayan ziyaret\u00e7ilerinin ilgisini s\u00fcrekli k\u0131labilmek i\u00e7in, at\u00f6lye ve seminer \u00e7al\u0131\u015fmalar\u0131 yapmas\u0131 yan\u0131nda, bunun gibi gelip-ge\u00e7ici sergiler a\u00e7mas\u0131 da \u00e7ok \u00f6nemli. Bu \u00f6rnekte daha \u00f6nemli olan ise, bir devlet m\u00fczesinin, devleti y\u0131kmak i\u00e7in silahlanm\u0131\u015f bir \u00f6rg\u00fct\u00fc, Alman tarihinden soyutlamak yerine onun par\u00e7as\u0131 saymas\u0131. T\u00fcrkiye\u2019de bir devlet m\u00fczesinin, \u00e7oktan eylemlerini durdurmu\u015f rejim kar\u015f\u0131t\u0131 bir silahl\u0131 \u00f6rg\u00fct\u00fcn sergisine ev sahipli\u011fi yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnebiliyor musunuz?<\/p>\n

M\u00fczecilik y\u00f6n\u00fcm\u00fc besleyen fikirlerle donanm\u0131\u015f olarak d\u0131\u015far\u0131ya \u00e7\u0131k\u0131yorum. Yata\u011fa girer girmez, her f\u0131rsatta hi\u00e7 bilmedi\u011fi tarihiyle \u00f6v\u00fcnen siyaset\u00e7ilerimizin, iktidar olduklar\u0131nda b\u00f6yle bir m\u00fczeyi neden kurmad\u0131klar\u0131n\u0131 d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn\u00fcyorum. Ecdad\u0131n ge\u00e7mi\u015finden baz\u0131 kesitleri hi\u00e7 sorgulamadan sahiplenirken, kalan\u0131n\u0131 g\u00f6rmezden gelip-horlayan \u00e7arp\u0131k siyasal k\u00fclt\u00fcr (hamaset) ve halk yalakal\u0131\u011f\u0131 (pop\u00fclizm) i\u00e7in tak\u0131lm\u0131\u015f samimiyetsizlik maskesi (12) akl\u0131ma geliyor. Bu de\u011ferlendirme ile \u00f6rt\u00fc\u015ft\u00fc\u011f\u00fcnden olsa gerek, uykuya yenik d\u00fc\u015fmezden \u00f6nce son an\u0131msad\u0131\u011f\u0131m,\u201c\u00e7ok s\u00f6z yalans\u0131z, \u00e7ok para harams\u0131z olmaz\u201d diyen \u00f6zdeyi\u015fimizdi.<\/p>\n

Tarihle hemhal sokak ve meydanlar<\/strong><\/p>\n

\u0130mparator II. Wilhelm\u2019in, kendisiyle ayn\u0131 ismi ta\u015f\u0131yan Almanya\u2019n\u0131n ilk imparatoru i\u00e7in in\u015fa ettirdi\u011fi, Kurf\u00fcrstendamm Caddesi\u2019ndeki (13) an\u0131 kilisesindeyiz (Kaiser Wilhelm Gedachtniskirche). \u0130kinci D\u00fcnya Sava\u015f\u0131\u2019ndaki bir m\u00fcttefik hava bombard\u0131man\u0131nda kubbesi y\u0131k\u0131lan kilisenin, 110 metreden y\u00fcksek \u00e7an kulesi h\u00e2l\u00e2 ayakta. Tavan\u0131 g\u00f6rkemli mozaiklerle kapl\u0131 an\u0131 kilisesi, art\u0131k ibadete a\u00e7\u0131k de\u011fil. Kubbesiz haliyle \u00fccretsiz gezilebilen bir m\u00fczeye d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015ft\u00fcr\u00fclm\u00fc\u015f. \u0130\u00e7inde, kilisenin y\u0131k\u0131lmadan \u00f6nce ve hemen sonraki durumunu g\u00f6steren bir foto\u011fraf sergisi ve hediyelik e\u015fya reyonu var. Kap\u0131s\u0131 \u00f6n\u00fcnde, AB\u2019ye al\u0131nmas\u0131ndan sonra Bulgaristan\u2019dan Berlin\u2019e g\u00f6\u00e7t\u00fc\u011f\u00fc s\u00f6ylenen \u00e7ingenelerden birka\u00e7\u0131 dileniyor.<\/p>\n

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Yahudi soyk\u0131r\u0131m\u0131 an\u0131s\u0131na yap\u0131lan temsili mezarl\u0131k (Holocost Memorial).<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Kilise demi\u015fken, \u00f6zellikle Berlin Katedrali\u2019ni (Berliner Dom) unutmamak gerekiyor. Havuzlu bah\u00e7esi, dinlenmek isteyen herkese kucak a\u00e7an Lustgarten\u2019deki bu Protestan katedrali, ilk kez 15. y\u00fczy\u0131l ortalar\u0131nda in\u015fa edilmi\u015f. \u0130mparator II. Wilhelm\u2019in emriyle y\u0131k\u0131l\u0131p yeniden in\u015fa edilen (1905) heybetli katedral, \u0130kinci D\u00fcnya Sava\u015f\u0131\u2019nda a\u011f\u0131r hasara u\u011fram\u0131\u015f. Demokratik Alman Cumhuriyeti s\u0131n\u0131rlar\u0131 i\u00e7inde oldu\u011fu so\u011fuk sava\u015f d\u00f6neminde kapal\u0131 duran katedral, uzun s\u00fcren bir restorasyon \u00e7al\u0131\u015fmas\u0131n\u0131n ard\u0131ndan, 1993\u2019te yeniden ziyarete a\u00e7\u0131lm\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n

\u0130kinci D\u00fcnya Sava\u015f\u0131 \u00f6ncesi ve s\u0131ras\u0131nda, Alman Polis Te\u015fkilat\u0131\u2019n\u0131n (Gestapo) Berlinli Yahudileri tutuklad\u0131\u011f\u0131 kald\u0131r\u0131m ve meydanlarda yerlere, kare bi\u00e7imli d\u00f6k\u00fcmden plakalar \u00e7ak\u0131lm\u0131\u015f. Plakalarda tutuklanan ki\u015finin ismi, do\u011fum tarihi ve mesle\u011fi d\u0131\u015f\u0131nda, hangi toplama kamp\u0131nda \u00f6ld\u00fc\u011f\u00fc, katledildi\u011fi veya kayboldu\u011fu belirtilmi\u015f. Yak\u0131n ge\u00e7mi\u015fte b\u00f6yle bir i\u015faretlemenin kolayca yap\u0131labilmesi, Gestapo\u2019nun ne denli \u00f6zenli kay\u0131t tuttu\u011funu g\u00f6steriyor. (14)<\/p>\n

Esasen Nazi d\u00f6nemini mahk\u00fbm eden, a\u00e7\u0131k ve\/veya kapal\u0131 mek\u00e2nlar\u0131 g\u00f6rmeden Berlin\u2019i gezmek m\u00fcmk\u00fcn de\u011fil. Katledilmi\u015f Avrupal\u0131 Yahudileri anmak i\u00e7in in\u015fa edilmi\u015f temsili bir mezarl\u0131k (Holocaust Memorial), bu mek\u00e2nlar\u0131n ba\u015f\u0131nda geliyor. Brandenburg Kap\u0131s\u0131\u2019na birka\u00e7 dakika uzakl\u0131ktaki mezarl\u0131k, 2005 y\u0131l\u0131nda ziyarete a\u00e7\u0131lm\u0131\u015f. Yakla\u015f\u0131k 20 d\u00f6n\u00fcml\u00fck bir alana, birbirinden farkl\u0131 b\u00fcy\u00fckl\u00fckte 2711 adet beton blok yerle\u015ftirilmi\u015f. Alman Parlamentosu\u2019nun (Reichstag\/Bundestag) yan\u0131ndaki b\u00fcy\u00fck parkta (Tiergarten), katledilmi\u015f \u00e7ingeneleri anmak i\u00e7in yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f bir alan var. Yuvarlak bir s\u0131\u011f havuzu \u00e7evreleyen kayrak ta\u015flar\u0131na, \u00e7ingenelerin g\u00f6nderilip katledildikleri toplama kamplar\u0131n\u0131n isimleri yaz\u0131lm\u0131\u015f. Nereden geldi\u011fi belli olmayan tiz ve sinir bozucu bir m\u00fczik, kasvetli bir atmosfer yarat\u0131yor. Ad\u0131n\u0131 an\u0131msayamad\u0131\u011f\u0131m bir metro istasyonu giri\u015fine dikilmi\u015f metal panoda, Nazilerin o istasyondan hangi toplama kamplar\u0131na sevk\u0131yat yapt\u0131klar\u0131 yaz\u0131lm\u0131\u015f. Kamusal alandaki bu t\u00fcr i\u015faretleme ve an\u0131 alan\u0131 d\u00fczenlemeleri, fa\u015fizmi ebediyen mahk\u00fbm etmek i\u00e7in \u00f6nemli, ancak ortadan kald\u0131rmaya yetmiyor. (15) Bu arada, \u00e7ok istedi\u011fim halde zaman\u0131m olmad\u0131\u011f\u0131 i\u00e7in gezemedi\u011fim Berlin Yahudi M\u00fczesi\u2019ni de (Judisches Museum Berlin),yukar\u0131daki mek\u00e2nlara eklemek gerekir.<\/p>\n

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Brandenburg Kap\u0131s\u0131.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Atina\u2019daki akropolden esinlenerek yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f, Paris Meydan\u0131\u2019ndaki (PariserPlatz) Brandenburg Kap\u0131s\u0131 (1791), Berlin kentinin sembollerinden biri. Ana giri\u015f kap\u0131s\u0131ndaki g\u00f6rkemli s\u00fctunlar\u0131n ta\u015f\u0131d\u0131\u011f\u0131, kabartmalarla s\u00fcslenmi\u015f platformun \u00fczerine, d\u00f6rt at\u0131n \u00e7ekti\u011fi tanr\u0131lara ait mitolojik bir sava\u015f arabas\u0131 (Quadriga) yerle\u015ftirilmi\u015f (1793). Prusya\u2019y\u0131 Jena\u2019da ma\u011flup eden Napolyon\u2019un (1806) Paris\u2019e g\u00f6t\u00fcrd\u00fc\u011f\u00fc bu araba, 1814\u2019te Paris\u2019e giren Prusya Ordusu taraf\u0131ndan Berlin\u2019e getirilmi\u015f. Kap\u0131 m\u00fcttefik hava bombard\u0131manlar\u0131nda zarar g\u00f6rse de, hemen tamir edilmi\u015f. So\u011fuk sava\u015f ba\u015flad\u0131\u011f\u0131 i\u00e7in a\u00e7\u0131lamayan Kap\u0131, Berlin b\u00f6l\u00fcnd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcnde Bat\u0131\u2019da kalm\u0131\u015f ve ancak 22 Aral\u0131k 1989\u2019da a\u00e7\u0131labilmi\u015f. Burada ve Berlin\u2019in baz\u0131 ba\u015fka meydanlar\u0131nda belediyece kurulmu\u015f, tasar\u0131m\u0131 ba\u015far\u0131l\u0131 foto\u011fraf sergileri ilgi \u00e7ekiyor.<\/p>\n

Brandenburg Kap\u0131s\u0131\u2019na yak\u0131n Cumhuriyet Meydan\u0131\u2019nda (Platz der Republic), turistlerin \u00e7ok\u00e7a ziyaret etti\u011fi Alman Parlamentosu bulunuyor. Frankfurtlu Paul Wallot\u2019un mimar\u0131 oldu\u011fu bu g\u00f6rkemli bina 1894 y\u0131l\u0131nda tamamlanm\u0131\u015f ve Nazi Partisi iktidar oluncaya kadar (1933) parlamento olarak kullan\u0131lm\u0131\u015f. \u0130kinci D\u00fcnya Sava\u015f\u0131\u2019ndaki m\u00fcttefik bombard\u0131man\u0131ndan nasibini alan Alman Parlamentosu, so\u011fuk sava\u015f d\u00f6neminde Berlin\u2019in bat\u0131s\u0131nda kald\u0131. (16) \u0130ki Almanya\u2019n\u0131n birle\u015fmesi (1990) ve Berlin\u2019in yeniden ba\u015fkent yap\u0131lmas\u0131ndan (1991) sonra bir kez daha restore edilen bina (17), 1999\u2019dan beri yine parlamento olarak hizmet veriyor. Binan\u0131n \u00f6n\u00fcndeki b\u00fcy\u00fck bah\u00e7e i\u00e7inde, bir taraf\u0131 Spree Nehri\u2019ne k\u0131y\u0131, \u00e7elik ve cam y\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 bir yap\u0131lar toplulu\u011fu dikkatimizi \u00e7ekiyor. Ba\u015fbakanl\u0131\u011fa ait \u00e7e\u015fitli ofisleri bar\u0131nd\u0131ran ve olas\u0131l\u0131kla y\u00f6netimin saydaml\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 vurgulamak i\u00e7in b\u00f6yle in\u015fa edilen yap\u0131lara, siyaseten kirli olan her \u015feyin y\u0131kan\u0131p akland\u0131\u011f\u0131 yer anlam\u0131nda, Almanlar\u0131n \u201c\u00e7ama\u015f\u0131rhane\u201d ismi verdiklerini \u00f6\u011freniyoruz. (18)<\/p>\n

Berlin\u2019in bir ba\u015fka sembol\u00fc, kentin b\u00f6l\u00fcnm\u00fc\u015fl\u00fc\u011f\u00fcne i\u015faret eden Charlie Kontrol Noktas\u0131 (Checkpoint Charlie). Berlin Duvar\u0131\u2019n\u0131n \u00f6r\u00fclmesinden (1961) sonra, asker ve\/veya sivil, kar\u015f\u0131t taraflar\u0131n \u00fcst d\u00fczey y\u00f6neticilerince kullan\u0131lm\u0131\u015f bu kontrol noktas\u0131nda, elindeki ABD bayra\u011f\u0131yla h\u00e2l\u00e2 bir Coni n\u00f6bet tutuyor. Ayn\u0131 noktaya bir de Alman Polisi dikilmi\u015f ki, biz oradayken g\u00f6rev yapan polis, turistlerle yersiz diyaloglar\u0131 ve hareketleriyle dikkati \u00fczerine toplamaya \u00e7al\u0131\u015fan bir zibidiydi. Kontrol noktas\u0131n\u0131n \u00e7evresine, hediyelik e\u015fya satan \u00e7ok say\u0131da d\u00fckk\u00e2n konumlanm\u0131\u015f. Bunlar\u0131n \u00e7o\u011funa girip \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z i\u00e7in, giri\u015f kap\u0131s\u0131 \u00fczerinde b\u00fcy\u00fck boy bir orak-\u00e7eki\u00e7li bayrak as\u0131l\u0131 duran Museum Checkpoint Charlie\u2019ye u\u011fram\u0131yoruz.<\/p>\n

\"\"
Alman Parlamentosu.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\u0130kinci D\u00fcnya Sava\u015f\u0131\u2019nda fa\u015fizmi yenilgiye u\u011fratan Birle\u015fik Cephe\u2019nin (ABD, SSCB, B\u00fcy\u00fck Britanya) 1945 Temmuz\u2019unda, d\u00fcnyaya d\u00fczen vermek i\u00e7in toplad\u0131\u011f\u0131 konferans\u0131 (Potsdam) a\u011f\u0131rlayan semtin meydan\u0131nday\u0131z: Potsdammer Platz. Metro istasyonundan \u00e7\u0131kar \u00e7\u0131kmaz, Rosa Luxemburg\u2019la birlikte Alman Kom\u00fcnist Partisi\u2019ni kuran usta, Karl Liebnecht\u2019in an\u0131s\u0131na dikilmi\u015f bir heykel kar\u015f\u0131l\u0131yor sizi. Biraz \u00f6tede ise, turistlerin yan\u0131nda foto\u011fraf \u00e7ektirmeleri i\u00e7in buraya getirilmi\u015f, Berlin Duvar\u0131\u2019ndan bir par\u00e7a sergileniyor. (19)<\/p>\n

\u201cBernauer Strasse\u201d isimli metro istasyonu yak\u0131n\u0131nda, Berlin Duvar\u0131\u2019ndan daha b\u00fcy\u00fck bir par\u00e7a (15 metrelik bir k\u0131s\u0131m), g\u00f6zetleme kulelerinden birinin enkaz\u0131, Bat\u0131 Berlin\u2019e ka\u00e7\u0131\u015f i\u00e7in kaz\u0131lm\u0131\u015f t\u00fcnellerle baz\u0131 ka\u00e7aklar\u0131n yakaland\u0131\u011f\u0131 noktalar\u0131n yer \u00fcst\u00fcnde i\u015faretlendi\u011fi bir alan\u0131 g\u00f6rmek m\u00fcmk\u00fcn. Mauserpark\u2019ta pazar g\u00fcnleri kuruldu\u011funu \u00f6\u011frendi\u011fimiz, Berlin\u2019in en b\u00fcy\u00fck bitpazar\u0131na giderken, tesad\u00fcfen kar\u015f\u0131m\u0131za \u00e7\u0131kan bu alan, foto\u011fraf sergileri ve a\u00e7\u0131klama panolar\u0131yla bir a\u00e7\u0131k hava m\u00fczesine d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015ft\u00fcr\u00fclm\u00fc\u015f. Berlin\u2019e \u00f6zg\u00fc tuzlu bir simit olan pretzellerimizi t\u00fcketirken, olas\u0131l\u0131kla so\u011fuk sava\u015f d\u00f6neminden bu b\u00f6lgeyi iyi bilen bir grup ya\u015fl\u0131 Alman ve turistlerden olu\u015fan bir kalabal\u0131\u011f\u0131n bile\u015feni oluyoruz.<\/p>\n

Spree Nehri\u2019nde gezinti<\/strong><\/p>\n

Orta Avrupa \u00fclkeleri ba\u015fkentlerinde yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131m gibi, Berlin\u2019de de bir vapur turu att\u0131m. (20) Spree Nehri\u2019ne inen ta\u015f ve\/veya ah\u015fap merdivenlerin a\u00e7\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131 k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck iskelelere, de\u011fi\u015fik b\u00fcy\u00fckl\u00fckte vapurlar ba\u011flanm\u0131\u015f. K\u0131rk be\u015f dakikal\u0131k bir tur i\u00e7in, ki\u015fi ba\u015f\u0131na on avro \u00f6deyerek bu vapurlardan birine bindik ve \u00fcst g\u00fcvertedeki bir masaya kurulduk. Tur \u015firketiyle Berlin\u2019e gelmi\u015f orta ya\u015fl\u0131 bir T\u00fcrk bayan da bize kat\u0131ld\u0131. Dedi\u011fine g\u00f6re arkada\u015flar\u0131, kendisi gibi m\u00fcze gezmek istememi\u015fler, sucuk sat\u0131n almak i\u00e7in Berlin\u2019deki T\u00fcrk mahallesine (Kreuzberg) gitmi\u015fler. Turumuz devam ederken, \u201cbiz d\u00f6ner yiyoruz, sen ne yap\u0131yorsun\u201d diye telefon ettiler. Ad\u0131n\u0131 an\u0131msamad\u0131\u011f\u0131m, ancak tad\u0131 dama\u011f\u0131m\u0131zda kalan bu\u011fday biralar\u0131m\u0131z\u0131 yudumlarken: M\u00fczeler Adas\u0131, Berlin Hayvanat Bah\u00e7esi, Alman Parlamentosu, Berlin Katedrali vb. binalar\u0131 farkl\u0131 a\u00e7\u0131lardan g\u00f6rme ve foto\u011fraflama \u015fans\u0131 buluyorum. Nehir kenar\u0131ndaki kafelerde oturan, \u00e7imenlerde g\u00fcne\u015flenen kalabal\u0131\u011f\u0131 seyrederek turumuzu tamaml\u0131yoruz. Karaya \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131zda, at\u0131\u015ft\u0131rmaya ba\u015flayan ya\u011fmurdan korunmak i\u00e7in, nehir kenar\u0131nda kurulmu\u015f bir hediyelik e\u015fya pazar\u0131na dald\u0131k. Bu pazardan ald\u0131\u011f\u0131m ve benzerini daha \u00f6nce g\u00f6rmedi\u011fim bir cam divit, Berlin gezimde edindi\u011fim iki \u00f6nemli e\u015fyadan biri oldu. (21)<\/p>\n

\"\"
Yahudi as\u0131ll\u0131 Alman vatanda\u015flar\u0131n\u0131n tutukland\u0131\u011f\u0131 noktalara \u00e7ak\u0131lan d\u00f6k\u00fcm plakalardan ikisi.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Berlin\u2019deki Turkish Town: Kreuzberg<\/strong><\/p>\n

\u201cKottbuser Tor\u201d metro istasyonundan girilen Kreuzberg\u2019de, \u0130kinci D\u00fcnya Sava\u015f\u0131\u2019ndan \u00f6nce, daha \u00e7ok Yahudi as\u0131ll\u0131 Alman yurtta\u015flar\u0131 ikamet edermi\u015f. Berlin b\u00f6l\u00fcnd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcnde Bat\u0131 taraf\u0131nda kalan, duvar boyundaki bu metruk mahalleye devlet, \u00e7al\u0131\u015fmak \u00fczere Almanya\u2019ya gelmekte olan T\u00fcrk i\u015f\u00e7ilerini yerle\u015ftirmi\u015f. Sakinlerinin \u00f6nemli bir k\u0131sm\u0131 T\u00fcrkiyeli olan Kreuzberg\u2019te (22), kula\u011f\u0131n\u0131za Almancadan ziyade T\u00fcrk\u00e7e \u00e7al\u0131n\u0131yor. Bir\u00e7ok d\u00fckk\u00e2n ve ma\u011fazan\u0131n tabelas\u0131 T\u00fcrk\u00e7e ve Merkez Simit Evi\u2019nde yedi\u011fimiz sucuklu yumurtan\u0131n tad\u0131 bildik olsa da, memleket bir ba\u015fka. G\u00fcnl\u00fc\u011f\u00fcme, Tegel Havaalan\u0131\u2019nda yazd\u0131\u011f\u0131m son c\u00fcmlenin, \u201cumar\u0131m u\u00e7ak r\u00f6tar yapmaz\u201d olmas\u0131 galiba bu nedenden.<\/p>\n

Dipnotlar<\/strong><\/p>\n

1) Sivasl\u0131yd\u0131 H\u00fcseyin, \u00fcniversitede lisans, y\u00fcksek lisans ve doktoradan s\u0131n\u0131f arkada\u015f\u0131m. Devrim Tarihi okutmanl\u0131\u011f\u0131 yapmak beklentilerini kar\u015f\u0131lamay\u0131nca, Deniz Harp Okulu\u2019na ge\u00e7mi\u015fti \u00f6\u011fretmen olarak. K\u0131sa bir s\u00fcre sonra, Deniz Kuvvetleri Dergisi\u2019ni yay\u0131mlama i\u015fini \u00fcstlendi. Y\u00fczba\u015f\u0131yken kendisine musallat olan hastal\u0131\u011f\u0131 onu \u00f6nce \u201chi\u00e7 al\u0131\u015famad\u0131m\u201d dedi\u011fi askerlikten, sonra ya\u015famdan kopard\u0131. Kaleme ald\u0131\u011f\u0131 kitap ve makaleleriyle bitmeyen \u00f6zlemi kald\u0131 bende. Yaz\u0131p hediye etti\u011fi kitaplar\u0131 ve siyah-beyaz foto\u011fraflar\u0131na her bak\u0131\u015f\u0131mda,y\u00fcz\u00fcnden eksik etmedi\u011fi g\u00fcl\u00fcmsemesini an\u0131ms\u0131yorum. Rahat uyu can dostum.<\/p>\n

2) \u201cT\u00fcrk K\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fc Bat\u0131\u2019dan G\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fcyor mu?\u201d, Cumhuriyet<\/em>, 30 Temmuz 2002; \u201cBir Tarih\u00e7inin \u0130spanya Gezisinden Notlar\u201d, Sol<\/em>, 10 A\u011fustos 2013.<\/p>\n

3) 1996 y\u0131l\u0131nda kurulmu\u015f bu merkez, Asya ve Afrika \u00fczerine ara\u015ft\u0131rmalar yapmakta olup Berlin Senatosu ile Federal E\u011fitim ve Ara\u015ft\u0131rma Bakanl\u0131\u011f\u0131 taraf\u0131ndan fonlanmaktad\u0131r.<\/p>\n

4) Re\u015fat Nuri G\u00fcntekin, Anadolu Notlar\u0131<\/em>, 17. Bask\u0131, \u0130stanbul: \u0130nk\u0131lap Kitabevi, s.9.<\/p>\n

5) Bunlar\u0131n baz\u0131lar\u0131nda, mezar ta\u015f\u0131 olarak kullan\u0131lm\u0131\u015f ve her biri sanat eseri bronz heykeller g\u00f6r\u00fcnce ilk akl\u0131ma gelen, s\u0131n\u0131f ayr\u0131m\u0131n\u0131n \u00f6l\u00fcmden sonra bile devam etti\u011fi oldu.<\/p>\n

6) Yunanistan\u2019\u0131n ba\u015fkenti Atina\u2019da da ba\u015f\u0131bo\u015f hayvanlar, T\u00fcrkiye\u2019de oldu\u011fu gibi serbest\u00e7e dola\u015f\u0131rlar. Avrupa Birli\u011fi\u2019ne \u00fcye, ancak benim hen\u00fcz gitmedi\u011fim di\u011fer Balkan \u00fclkelerinde de olas\u0131l\u0131kla durum ayn\u0131d\u0131r.<\/p>\n

7) Yeti\u015fkin bireylere saatle kiralanan bira f\u0131\u00e7\u0131s\u0131 formunda ve i\u00e7indekilerin pedal \u00e7evirmesiyle hareket edebilen bir bisiklet de g\u00f6rd\u00fcm Berlin\u2019de. Tasar\u0131m\u0131 ilgin\u00e7 bu bisiklet yolcular\u0131na, f\u0131\u00e7\u0131n\u0131n i\u00e7indeki biray\u0131 t\u00fcketirken kenti gezip g\u00f6rme imk\u00e2n\u0131 sa\u011fl\u0131yor.<\/p>\n

8) T\u00fcrkiye\u2019nin \u00fc\u00e7 b\u00fcy\u00fck kentinde mevcut metro hatlar\u0131n\u0131n toplam uzunlu\u011fu, 3.500.000 n\u00fcfuslu Berlin\u2019in metro hatt\u0131n\u0131 (146 km.) ancak yakalayabiliyor.<\/p>\n

9) II. Abd\u00fclhamit\u2019in r\u0131zas\u0131yla Bergama\u2019dan Zeus Suna\u011f\u0131 ile Athena Heykeli; Milet\u2019ten bir pazar kap\u0131s\u0131; Didim ve Priene (G\u00fcll\u00fck) kaynakl\u0131 baz\u0131 arkeolojik eserler; \u0130znik\u2019ten \u00e7iniler ve T\u00fcrk hal\u0131lar\u0131n\u0131n da i\u00e7inde sergilendi\u011fi.<\/p>\n

10) 2012 y\u0131l\u0131nda, \u00d6demi\u015f\u2019teki Y\u0131ld\u0131z Kent Ar\u015fivi ve M\u00fczesi\u2019ni (\u00d6YKAM) kurup ziyarete a\u00e7m\u0131\u015ft\u0131m. Halen, \u00f6n\u00fcm\u00fczdeki aylarda ziyarete a\u00e7\u0131lmas\u0131 planlanan, Ku\u015fadas\u0131\u2019ndaki F. \u00d6zel Arabul K\u00fclt\u00fcr Merkezi\u2019nin (KUAKMER) kurucu m\u00fcd\u00fcrl\u00fc\u011f\u00fcn\u00fc yapmaktay\u0131m.<\/p>\n

11) K\u0131z\u0131l Ordu, Avrupa\u2019da \u0130kinci D\u00fcnya Sava\u015f\u0131\u2019n\u0131 bitiren Berlin\u2019deki sokak sava\u015flar\u0131n\u0131 kazand\u0131ktan sonra,Bergama Zeus Suna\u011f\u0131 ve Alman Arkeolog Schliemann\u2019\u0131n, 1873 y\u0131l\u0131nda Osmanl\u0131 \u00fclkesinden ka\u00e7\u0131r\u0131p Alman H\u00fck\u00fcmeti\u2019ne verdi\u011fi Truva Hazinesi dahil, Alman m\u00fczelerinden bir\u00e7ok tarih ve sanat de\u011feri olan eseri, ganimet\/sava\u015f tazminat\u0131 olarak Leningrad\u2019a (Sen Petersburg) ta\u015f\u0131d\u0131. Do\u011fu Almanya\u2019dan g\u00f6t\u00fcr\u00fclen eserler, So\u011fuk Sava\u015f d\u00f6neminde iade edilseler de, Berlin\u2019deki m\u00fczelerden g\u00f6t\u00fcr\u00fclen baz\u0131 eserler (Truva Hazinesi: 259 alt\u0131n par\u00e7a; Eberswald Hazinesi: 81 alt\u0131n par\u00e7a gibi) h\u00e2l\u00e2 Rusya Federasyonu\u2019nda: Moskova\u2019daki Pu\u015fkin M\u00fczesi ile Sen Petersburg\u2019daki Ermitaj M\u00fczesi\u2019nin envanterinde bulunuyor. \u00d6te yandan M\u00fcttefiklerin daha sava\u015f devam ederken, Alman Ordusu\u2019nun i\u015fgal etti\u011fi \u00fclkelerden toplay\u0131p saklad\u0131\u011f\u0131 eserleri bulmak i\u00e7in bir komisyon kurdu\u011fu bilinmektedir. Olas\u0131l\u0131kla bu komisyonun \u00e7al\u0131\u015fmalar\u0131 sonucu, 1945 May\u0131s\u2019\u0131nda Avusturya\u2019daki bir ma\u011fara ve trende, Avrupa\u2019daki m\u00fcze ve saraylardan \u00e7\u0131kar\u0131lm\u0131\u015f binlerce par\u00e7a eser ele ge\u00e7irilmi\u015fti. Bu konuya odaklanan sinema filmlerinin sonuncusu, ba\u015frollerini George Clooney ile Matt Damon\u2019un payla\u015ft\u0131\u011f\u0131, 2013 yap\u0131m\u0131 Hazine Avc\u0131lar\u0131<\/em> (The Manuments Men) filmiydi.<\/p>\n

12) En g\u00fcncel \u00f6rnek: Demokrat Parti\u2019den geldi\u011fini diline pelesenk eden AKP\u2019nin, Adnan Menderes ve arkada\u015flar\u0131n\u0131n yarg\u0131land\u0131\u011f\u0131 Yass\u0131ada\u2019y\u0131, 7 Haziran 2015 se\u00e7imlerden birka\u00e7 hafta \u00f6nce, \u201cDemokrasi ve \u00d6zg\u00fcrl\u00fck Adas\u0131\u201d ilan edip turistik ama\u00e7la y\u00fczde 65 oran\u0131nda yap\u0131la\u015fmaya a\u00e7mas\u0131d\u0131r. S\u00f6zc\u00fc<\/em>, 20 May\u0131s 1995 tarihli n\u00fcshas\u0131nda, Yass\u0131ada\u2019daki duru\u015fmalarda \u00e7ok say\u0131da Demokrat Partili milletvekilinin avukatl\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 yapm\u0131\u015f, TBMM\u2019nin 17. Ba\u015fkan\u0131 H\u00fcsamettin Cindoruk\u2019la yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f bir s\u00f6yle\u015fiyi yay\u0131mlanm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. Cindoruk\u2019a g\u00f6re AKP\u2019nin Yass\u0131ada\u2019ya yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131, \u201cistismar…(\u00e7\u00fcnk\u00fc) oras\u0131 (Yass\u0131ada) keyif yeri de\u011fil, \u00e7ile yeridir\u201d.<\/p>\n

13) Almanlar\u0131n k\u0131saca \u201cKu\u2019damm\u201d dedikleri, 3,5 km uzunlu\u011fundaki bu geni\u015f ve a\u011fa\u00e7l\u0131 caddede; konaklama, al\u0131\u015fveri\u015f ve e\u011flence ama\u00e7l\u0131 mek\u00e2nlar g\u00f6ze \u00e7arp\u0131yor. Cadde boyunca dizilmi\u015f kafelerde i\u015f \u00e7\u0131k\u0131\u015f\u0131 bira yudumlayarak yorgunluk atan tak\u0131m elbiseliler ile l\u00fcks spor arabalar\u0131yla ileri-geri turlayanlar g\u00f6ze \u00e7arp\u0131yor.<\/p>\n

14) Alman \u0130mparatorlu\u011fu\u2019nun Birinci D\u00fcnya Sava\u015f\u0131\u2019nda kader ortakl\u0131\u011f\u0131 yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131 bir \u00fclkenin (T\u00fcrkiye\u2019nin) ba\u015fbakan\u0131 oldu\u011fu i\u00e7in, i\u015faretleme yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f olabilece\u011fi d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcncesiyle Talat Pa\u015fa\u2019n\u0131n bir Ermeni taraf\u0131ndan vurulup \u00f6ld\u00fcr\u00fcld\u00fc\u011f\u00fc (1921)Hardenberstrasse\u2019ye gittik, ancak hi\u00e7bir iz bulamad\u0131k.<\/p>\n

15) Tersi olsayd\u0131, Almanya\u2019da T\u00fcrkler dahil yabanc\u0131lar\u0131n ev ve i\u015fyerlerini kundaklayan, \u00f6l\u00fcm ve yaralanmalara sebebiyet veren Neo-Nazileri g\u00f6rmememiz gerekirdi. Bunlarla ilgili g\u00fcncel bir de\u011ferlendirme i\u00e7in bkz. Ahmet Arpad, \u201cOlaylar 1933 Sonras\u0131n\u0131 And\u0131rmaya Ba\u015flad\u0131\u201d, Cumhuriyet<\/em>, 7 Haziran 2005. Esasen son y\u0131llarda, Avrupa\u2019n\u0131n bir\u00e7ok \u00fclkesinde fa\u015fizmin; yabanc\u0131, \u0130slam, zenci, g\u00f6\u00e7men ve yoksul kar\u015f\u0131tl\u0131\u011f\u0131 \u00fczerinden yeniden kendini g\u00f6sterdi\u011fi; bir\u00e7ok parlamentoda temsil edilecek kadar se\u00e7men deste\u011fi buldu\u011fu ortadad\u0131r.<\/p>\n

16) K\u0131z\u0131l Ordu askeri Abd\u00fclhalim \u0130smailov\u2019un, bu binan\u0131n \u00e7at\u0131s\u0131na orak-\u00e7eki\u00e7li Sovyet Bayra\u011f\u0131\u2019n\u0131 dikmesini g\u00f6steren ve SSCB\u2019nin Nazi Almanya\u2019s\u0131na kar\u015f\u0131 zaferini ve Avrupa\u2019da sava\u015f\u0131n bitmesini simgeleyen bir foto\u011fraf, \u0130kinci D\u00fcnya Sava\u015f\u0131\u2019nda \u00e7ekilmi\u015f en \u00f6nemli karelerden biri olmu\u015ftu. \u0130smailov yak\u0131n ge\u00e7mi\u015fte, 93 ya\u015f\u0131ndayken Da\u011f\u0131stan-Hasyurt\u2019ta ya\u015fam\u0131n\u0131 yitirmi\u015fti.<\/p>\n

17) Tan\u0131nm\u0131\u015f mimar Norman Foster \u00f6nc\u00fcl\u00fc\u011f\u00fcnde ger\u00e7ekle\u015ftirilen bu son restorasyonda binaya eklenen ve ana toplant\u0131 salonunu yukar\u0131dan g\u00f6ren cam kubbe,\u00f6nceden randevu almak suretiyle gezilebilmektedir.<\/p>\n

18) Bu durum bize, polisin yurtta\u015fa k\u00f6t\u00fc muamele ve i\u015fkence etmesini \u00f6nlemek i\u00e7in Do\u011fru Yol Partisi\u2019nin dile getirdi\u011fi \u201cduvarlar\u0131 camdan karakollar\u201d s\u00f6ylemini an\u0131msatt\u0131.<\/p>\n

19) Berlin Duvar\u0131, kapitalizmin her \u015feyi paraya tahvil etmesine iyi bir \u00f6rnek olu\u015fturuyor. Kentte hangi hediyelik e\u015fya d\u00fckk\u00e2n\u0131na girseniz, olas\u0131l\u0131kla o duvardan kopar\u0131lmam\u0131\u015f baz\u0131 beton par\u00e7ac\u0131klar\u0131n ya anahtarl\u0131k ya da ba\u015fka bir hediyelik e\u015fya yap\u0131l\u0131p sat\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 g\u00f6r\u00fcyorsunuz. Bu ba\u011flamda bir ba\u015fka \u00f6rnek, Berlin\u2019deki trafik \u0131\u015f\u0131klar\u0131nda kullan\u0131lan ampul adam (ampelman). Sar\u0131, k\u0131rm\u0131z\u0131 ve ye\u015fil renkte, de\u011fi\u015fik boyutlarda plastik heykellerini yapan bir sanat\u00e7\u0131n\u0131n, sat\u0131\u015f ma\u011fazas\u0131n\u0131 bile gezdim.<\/p>\n

20) Denize k\u0131y\u0131s\u0131 bile olmayan baz\u0131 Avrupa \u00fclkelerinin ula\u015f\u0131m, ticaret, bal\u0131k\u00e7\u0131l\u0131k ve turizm amac\u0131yla nehirlerini etkin olarak kullanmalar\u0131na, denizlerinden bile hakk\u0131yla yararlanamayan bir \u00fclkenin yurtta\u015f\u0131 olarak hayranl\u0131k duyuyorum. Ke\u015fke \u015fehzadeler kenti Amasya\u2019n\u0131n, Yal\u0131 Boyundaki o g\u00fczelim evleri, Ye\u015fil\u0131rmak\u2019ta i\u015fleyen vapurlardan g\u00f6r\u00fclebilse. Bu ba\u011flamda y\u00fcreklerimize su serpen ilk \u00f6rnek, Eski\u015fehir B\u00fcy\u00fck\u015fehir Belediyesi\u2019nin devreye soktu\u011fu, Porsuk Nehri \u00fczerindeki plaj d\u00fczenlemesi ve gondol turlar\u0131d\u0131r.<\/p>\n

21) Di\u011feri, tesad\u00fcfen g\u00f6rd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcm bir eski kitap\u00e7\u0131dan pazarl\u0131kla sat\u0131n ald\u0131\u011f\u0131m, \u0130zmir\u2019e ait 1826 ve 1828 tarihli iki adet grav\u00fcrd\u00fc.<\/p>\n

22) Birka\u00e7 apartman\u0131n zillerine bak\u0131yoruz. Her apartmanda sakinlerin en az yar\u0131s\u0131n\u0131n T\u00fcrkiyeli oldu\u011funu anl\u0131yoruz.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Berlin bir m\u00fczeler kenti. Bergama M\u00fczesi (Pergamon Museum) ile Alman Tarih M\u00fczesi (Deutsches Historisches Museum), Prusyal\u0131 \u00fcnl\u00fc tarih\u00e7i Ranke\u2019nin kurdu\u011fu Alexanderplatz\u2019daki m\u00fczeler adas\u0131 (Museumsinsel) i\u00e7inde, sanki birbirlerine s\u0131rt vermi\u015f gibiler. Spree Nehri, bu iki ve ba\u015fka b\u00fcy\u00fck m\u00fczelerin yerle\u015fti\u011fi, 1999 y\u0131l\u0131nda UNESCO\u2019nun D\u00fcnya Miras\u0131 Listesi\u2019ne dahil etti\u011fi aday\u0131 \u00e7evreliyor. Dr. H\u00fcseyin Y\u0131ld\u0131r\u0131m\u2019\u0131n an\u0131s\u0131na\u2026 (1) Akademik […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":575,"featured_media":20122,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[174,222],"tags":[2406,1867,238],"class_list":["post-20121","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-137-sayi","category-tarih","tag-berlin","tag-muzeler","tag-tarih"],"acf":[],"aioseo_notices":[],"aioseo_head":"\n\t\t\n\t\n\t\n\t\n\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t