{"id":42936,"date":"2012-10-01T23:18:02","date_gmt":"2012-10-01T20:18:02","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/bilimvegelecek.com.tr\/?p=42936"},"modified":"2020-04-21T23:31:17","modified_gmt":"2020-04-21T20:31:17","slug":"camaldolinin-sessiz-ormanlarinda","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/bilimvegelecek.com.tr\/index.php\/2012\/10\/01\/camaldolinin-sessiz-ormanlarinda","title":{"rendered":"Camaldoli\u2019nin sessiz ormanlar\u0131nda\u2026"},"content":{"rendered":"

Yolu 1905 y\u0131l\u0131nda Toscana\u2019da Casentino\u2019ya d\u00fc\u015fen Ella Noyes g\u00fcnl\u00fc\u011f\u00fcne \u201cApenin da\u011flar\u0131n\u0131n kalbinde Casentino diye adland\u0131r\u0131lan ye\u015fil ve bereketli vadi b\u00fcy\u00fck bir istiridye kabu\u011funu an\u0131msat\u0131yor\u201d diye not d\u00fc\u015fm\u00fc\u015f.<\/p>\n

Sessiz bir co\u011frafyan\u0131n aray\u0131\u015f\u0131ndaki Noyes\u2019un Casentino\u2019ya geli\u015finden bu yana y\u0131llar ge\u00e7se de bu b\u00f6lgenin s\u0131n\u0131rlar\u0131 i\u00e7indeki tarihi manast\u0131r, Aziz Romualdo\u2019nun 11. y\u00fczy\u0131lda inzivaya \u00e7ekildi\u011fi k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck kilise, manast\u0131r kompleksi i\u00e7indeki tarihi eczane, bitkisel i\u00e7erikli ila\u00e7lar\u0131n haz\u0131rland\u0131\u011f\u0131 laboratuar, marangozluk at\u00f6lyesi, Camaldoli\u2019nin g\u00f6ky\u00fcz\u00fcne uzanan kay\u0131n ve cam a\u011fa\u00e7lar\u0131yla \u00e7evrili lo\u015f ormanlar\u0131, Apenin da\u011flar\u0131n\u0131n farkl\u0131 y\u00fckseltileri aras\u0131nda uzanan patikalar, \u015fehir ya\u015fam\u0131ndan uzakla\u015f\u0131p do\u011fayla ba\u015f ba\u015fa kalmay\u0131, uzun y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fc\u015fler yapmay\u0131 ve d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnmeyi se\u00e7enlere mistik bir d\u00fcnyan\u0131n kap\u0131lar\u0131n\u0131 aral\u0131yor.<\/p>\n

Afrika\u2019dan gelen a\u015f\u0131r\u0131 s\u0131caklarla nefes al\u0131namaz bir \u015fehre d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015fen Milano\u2019dan a\u011fustos sonunda Camaldoli\u2019ye do\u011fru yola \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131m. Milano ile Camaldoli\u2019nin ba\u011fl\u0131 oldu\u011fu orta\u00e7a\u011f kasabas\u0131 Poppi (Arezzo) aras\u0131ndaki yolculuk, Bologna\u2019da otoyol trafi\u011fine yakalanmad\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131z s\u00fcrece yakla\u015f\u0131k 4,5 saat s\u00fcr\u00fcyor.<\/p>\n

Toscana b\u00f6lgesinde Floransa\u2019ya iki saat uzakl\u0131ktaki Camaldoli, binli y\u0131llarda mistik \u00e7a\u011fr\u0131\u015f\u0131mlar yapan do\u011fas\u0131yla \u00f6ncelikle Benedikten rahiplerin ilgisini \u00e7ekiyor. Bu do\u011fa par\u00e7as\u0131n\u0131 ke\u015ffeden ilk ki\u015fi, Aziz Romualdo. Aziz 1046\u2019da, Camaldoli\u2019de deniz seviyesinden 818 metre y\u00fckseklikte bir manast\u0131r ile k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck bir hastane kuruyor. Bu tarihi manast\u0131r, Dante\u2019nin \u201cAraf\u201dda be\u015finci \u015fark\u0131da dile getirdi\u011fi Archiano kilisesinin yan\u0131 ba\u015f\u0131nda. Camaldoli\u2019ye gelenlerin ziyaret etti\u011fi bug\u00fcnk\u00fc manast\u0131r yap\u0131s\u0131 ise, 16. y\u00fczy\u0131ldan kalma.<\/p>\n

Orman\u0131, da\u011f\u0131 ve uzun y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fc\u015fleri tercih edenlerin u\u011frak noktas\u0131 olan Camaldoli\u2019de, hava ko\u015fullar\u0131 uygun olmad\u0131\u011f\u0131, Apeninlerde r\u00fczg\u00e2r\u0131n kuvvetli esti\u011fi g\u00fcnlerde alternatif bir se\u00e7im, y\u00f6resel tarihi ke\u015ffetmek olabilir. Camaldoli\u2019nin merkezindeki manast\u0131r kompleksi, 16. y\u00fczy\u0131la tarihlendirilen, tarihi eczane Camaldoli\u2019nin tarihi ge\u00e7mi\u015fine tan\u0131kl\u0131k eden ba\u015fl\u0131ca yap\u0131lar.<\/p>\n

Manast\u0131r\u0131n kurucusu olan Aziz Romualdo\u2019ya geri d\u00f6nersek, Aziz\u2019in Camaldoli\u2019de ge\u00e7irdi\u011fi k\u0131sa bir d\u00f6nemin ard\u0131ndan kendisini sosyal \u00e7evreden soyutlamaya karar verdi\u011fi, manast\u0131ra \u00fc\u00e7 kilometre uzakl\u0131kta 1.100 metre y\u00fckseklikte bug\u00fcn \u201cEremo\u201d diye an\u0131lan dini yap\u0131da inzivaya \u00e7ekildi\u011fi anlat\u0131l\u0131yor. Kendilerini ya\u015famdan soyutlayan baz\u0131 Benedikten rahipler, bu dini yap\u0131da bug\u00fcn de Aziz Romualdo gibi inziva ya\u015fam\u0131 s\u00fcr\u00fcyor. Bug\u00fcnk\u00fc rahiplerin kapand\u0131klar\u0131 h\u00fccreleri ziyaret etmek m\u00fcmk\u00fcn olmasa da Romualdo\u2019nun inzivaya \u00e7ekildi\u011fi h\u00fccreyi Eremo\u2019ya gidenler g\u00f6rebilir.<\/p>\n

\"\"
Manast\u0131r kompleksi i\u00e7inde yer alan tarihi eczane.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Camaldoli\u2019de 900 metre y\u00fckseklikte bir nehir k\u0131y\u0131s\u0131nda kurulu manast\u0131r kompleksi d\u00f6nemin benzer ba\u015fka dini yap\u0131lar\u0131 gibi kilise, yemekhane, merkez avlu, ikinci katta in\u015fa edilen rahiplerin g\u00fcndelik ya\u015famlar\u0131n\u0131 s\u00fcrd\u00fcrd\u00fc\u011f\u00fc mek\u00e2nlardan olu\u015fuyor. Orta\u00e7a\u011fda manast\u0131rlarda y\u00fcr\u00fct\u00fclen eczac\u0131l\u0131k faaliyetleri, ah\u015fap i\u015f\u00e7ili\u011finin \u00f6nemli bir rol \u00fcstlendi\u011fi marangozluk at\u00f6lyesi, ileriki y\u0131llarda kurulan bas\u0131mevi bu yap\u0131lar b\u00fct\u00fcn\u00fcn\u00fc tamamlayan \u00f6teki mek\u00e2nlar.<\/p>\n

18.ve 19. y\u00fczy\u0131llarda Toscana\u2019n\u0131n do\u011fal g\u00fczelliklerini ke\u015ffe \u00e7\u0131kan \u0130ngiliz seyyahlar\u0131n u\u011frad\u0131klar\u0131 Camaldoli ormanlar\u0131n\u0131 anlatmadan \u00f6nce bug\u00fcn tarihi eczanenin \u00f6yk\u00fcs\u00fcn\u00fc de k\u0131saca aktarmak istiyorum.<\/p>\n

Sa\u011fl\u0131k hizmetleri \u00fccretsizdi
\n<\/em><\/strong>Camaldoli\u2019ye 11. y\u00fczy\u0131lda yerle\u015fen Benedikten rahipler, \u0130talya ve \u00e7evre \u00fclkelerden gelen hastalar\u0131 tedavi etmek amac\u0131yla \u00f6nce k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck bir hastane kuruyor. Buraya yat\u0131r\u0131lan hastalar, \u00fccretsiz tedavi ediliyor ve b\u00fct\u00fcn sa\u011fl\u0131k hizmetleri Camaldoli\u2019nin ba\u011fl\u0131 oldu\u011fu Poppi kasabas\u0131n\u0131n hekimince kar\u015f\u0131lan\u0131yor. Poppi hekiminin \u00fccretini manast\u0131rdaki rahipler kar\u015f\u0131l\u0131yor. Tedavi g\u00f6ren hastan\u0131n ya\u015fam\u0131n\u0131 yitirmesi durumunda ise cenaze masraflar\u0131n\u0131 yine manast\u0131r y\u00f6netimi kar\u015f\u0131l\u0131yor. O d\u00f6nemde Poppi\u2019de bir mezarl\u0131k olmad\u0131\u011f\u0131 i\u00e7in \u00f6l\u00fcler manast\u0131r\u0131n zemin kat\u0131ndaki mek\u00e2nlarda taban alt\u0131na g\u00f6m\u00fcl\u00fcyor. Bu hastane 1810 y\u0131l\u0131na kadar hizmet vermeyi s\u00fcrd\u00fcr\u00fcyor.<\/p>\n

Bug\u00fcn hastanenin varl\u0131\u011f\u0131na i\u015faret eden tek mimari kal\u0131nt\u0131, tarihi eczane. Hekimlerin gerekli g\u00f6rd\u00fc\u011f\u00fc bitkisel i\u00e7erikli ila\u00e7lar\u0131n haz\u0131rland\u0131\u011f\u0131 eczane, bug\u00fcn de Camaldoli sakinlerine hizmet vermeyi s\u00fcrd\u00fcr\u00fcyor. 15. ve 16. y\u00fczy\u0131la tarihlenen ila\u00e7 re\u00e7eteleri ise bu antika eczanenin ar\u015fivinde sakl\u0131.<\/p>\n

500 ya\u015f\u0131ndaki kestane a\u011fac\u0131
\n<\/em><\/strong>Camaldoli\u2019de rahiplerin y\u00fczy\u0131llar boyu ruhani bir boyutun pe\u015fi s\u0131ra inzivaya \u00e7ekildikleri ormanlar\u0131 koruma amac\u0131na y\u00f6nelik, alternatif do\u011fa ve k\u00fclt\u00fcr turizmini te\u015fvik eden Orman \u0130\u015fletmesi\u2019nin de tarihi bir ge\u00e7mi\u015fi var.<\/p>\n

1000\u2019li y\u0131llardan g\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fcze uzanan bu s\u00fcre\u00e7te Apeninlerin \u00e7evreledi\u011fi da\u011fl\u0131k kesim, orman yollar\u0131, y\u00fczy\u0131llar boyunca orman\u0131 do\u011fal bir kaynak g\u00f6ren, bu ormanlarda mevcut a\u011fa\u00e7lar ve bitkileri ara\u015ft\u0131ran, inceleyen ve belgeleyen rahipler, manast\u0131r\u0131n k\u00fct\u00fcphanesinde korunan tarihi bir yazma eserde vurguland\u0131\u011f\u0131 gibi y\u00f6resel flora ve fauna konusunda ayr\u0131nt\u0131l\u0131 bilgiler veriyor. 300 bin cilt eserin korundu\u011fu manast\u0131r k\u00fct\u00fcphanesinde bug\u00fcn Ulusal Park ilan edilen Camaldoli\u2019de birazdan \u00f6yk\u00fcs\u00fcn\u00fc anlataca\u011f\u0131m, an\u0131t eser se\u00e7ilen 500 ya\u015f\u0131ndaki kestane a\u011fac\u0131 da (Castagno Miragl\u0131a da) kay\u0131tl\u0131.<\/p>\n

Camaldoli\u2019deki tarihi ormanlara dalmak, g\u00f6ky\u00fcz\u00fcne uzanan narin kay\u0131n ve \u00e7am a\u011fa\u00e7lar\u0131n\u0131n g\u00f6lgesindeki patikalarda uzun y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fc\u015fler yapmak, Apenin da\u011flar\u0131n\u0131n vadiye tepeden bakan y\u00fcksek noktalar\u0131na ula\u015fmak, \u015fans\u0131n\u0131z varsa orman faunas\u0131nda yer alan yaban domuzlar\u0131, geyikler ve kurtlar\u0131 g\u00f6zlemek, sessizli\u011fin hakim oldu\u011fu bu do\u011fal co\u011frafyada kendinizle ba\u015f ba\u015fa kalmak, Orman \u0130\u015fletmesi\u2019nin i\u015faretledi\u011fi farkl\u0131 g\u00fc\u00e7l\u00fckteki patikalar\u0131 izleyerek, yan yollara sapmad\u0131k\u00e7a kaybolma tehlikesi olmadan y\u00fcr\u00fcmenin keyfine varmak, d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnmek, r\u00fczg\u00e2r\u0131n t\u0131n\u0131s\u0131n\u0131, a\u011fa\u00e7lar\u0131n h\u0131\u015f\u0131rt\u0131s\u0131n\u0131, kimi zaman kuytu bir patikada rast gelinen bisiklet\u00e7ileri selamlamak ve her g\u00fcn araban\u0131z\u0131 kullanmak zorunda kalmadan bir\u00e7ok noktaya y\u00fcr\u00fcyerek ula\u015fmay\u0131 istiyorsan\u0131z Rifugio Asqua\u2019da (www.asqua.it) konaklaman\u0131z\u0131 \u00f6neririm.<\/p>\n

Milanolu gen\u00e7 \u00e7ift Massimilano ve Paola\u2019n\u0131n y\u00f6netimini \u00fcstlendi\u011fi bu \u00e7iftlik evinde, ge\u00e7ti\u011fimiz y\u00fczy\u0131lda Camaldoli\u2019li bir \u00e7ift\u00e7i ailesi ya\u015f\u0131yordu. Ev kaderine terk edildince Orman \u0130\u015fletmesi, b\u00f6lgeye gelen do\u011faseverler ve gezginlerin konaklayabilece\u011fi bir ev hizmeti vermesi i\u00e7in kollar\u0131 s\u0131vad\u0131. Milano\u2019yu \u00e7e\u015fitli nedenlerle terk etmeye karar veren bu \u00e7iftin y\u00f6netimindeki Rifugio Asqua, sessizlik pe\u015findeki do\u011fa gezginleri i\u00e7in stratejik bir noktada.<\/p>\n

Bir ev ortam\u0131n\u0131n s\u0131cakl\u0131\u011f\u0131nda, sade ama nitelikli bir hizmet veren Rifugio Asqua\u2019da konaklayarak hava durumuna g\u00f6re (\u00e7\u00fcnk\u00fc da\u011fda hava her an de\u011fi\u015febiliyor) g\u00fcnl\u00fck gezi program\u0131 yapabilir ve orman y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fc\u015flerinizi planlayabilirsiniz.<\/p>\n

Apeninlerin s\u0131rtlar\u0131na \u00e7\u0131kan patikalar, farkl\u0131 g\u00fc\u00e7l\u00fck derecelerinde y\u00fcr\u00fcmeyi sevenlere \u00e7e\u015fitli se\u00e7enekler sunuyor. \u0130lkbahar, yaz ve sonbahar, y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fc\u015f i\u00e7in en uygun mevsimler. Rifugio Asqua\u2019n\u0131n kap\u0131s\u0131, Noel tatili d\u0131\u015f\u0131nda gezginlere hep a\u00e7\u0131k.<\/p>\n

M\u00fc\u015fterilerine kahvalt\u0131, \u00f6\u011flen ve ak\u015fam yeme\u011fi olmak \u00fczere \u00fc\u00e7 \u00f6\u011f\u00fcn servis yapan \u00e7iftlik evinde mutfaktaki uzun masada bir araya gelenler dost\u00e7a bir ortamda birlikte yiyor. Massimilano ve Paola, Toscana\u2019ya \u00f6zg\u00fc koyun peyniri, kestane unundan haz\u0131rlanan ekmek ve kekler, balla yenilmesi \u00f6nerilen y\u00f6resel peynirler, yaban domuzu, \u00e7evredeki ormanlarda toplanan mantarlarla pi\u015firilen makarna gibi Camaldoli\u2019nin y\u00f6resel \u00fcr\u00fcnlerine a\u011f\u0131rl\u0131k veren bir men\u00fc haz\u0131rl\u0131yor. Yemek sonras\u0131 sohbet, hava so\u011fuk ise giri\u015f kat\u0131ndaki salonda \u015f\u00f6minenin yan\u0131 ba\u015f\u0131nda, g\u00fczelse bah\u00e7ede ormandan yans\u0131yan gece seslerinin e\u015fli\u011finde s\u00fcr\u00fcyor.<\/p>\n

Camaldoli\u2019den notlar<\/strong><\/p>\n

Castagno Miraglia
\n<\/strong>Bug\u00fcn an\u0131t eser kabul edilen ve Casentino Ulusal Park\u0131\u2019n\u0131n s\u0131n\u0131rlar\u0131 i\u00e7inde korunan tarihi kestane a\u011fac\u0131n\u0131n (Castagno Miraglia) manast\u0131rdaki belgelerde 500 ya\u015f\u0131nda oldu\u011fu kay\u0131t d\u00fc\u015f\u00fclse de, son d\u00f6nemde ger\u00e7ekle\u015ftiren bilimsel ara\u015ft\u0131rmalar, bu a\u011fac\u0131n en az 300 ya\u015f\u0131nda oldu\u011funa i\u015faret ediyor. 18. y\u00fczy\u0131lda Camaldoli\u2019deki orman i\u015fletmesinde y\u00f6netici olarak g\u00f6rev yapan Nicola Miraglia\u2019n\u0131n e\u015fi Elena\u2019n\u0131n an\u0131s\u0131na dikilen Castagno Miraglia, 20 metre y\u00fcksekli\u011finde. Efsaneye kulak verirsek Miraglia\u2019n\u0131n e\u015fi y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fc\u015fe \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131\u011f\u0131n zaman a\u011fac\u0131n g\u00f6vdesindeki oyukta mola verip dinlenirmi\u015f.<\/p>\n

Traversari G\u00f6l\u00fc
\n<\/strong>Camaldoli manast\u0131r\u0131n\u0131n Benedikten rahipleri vejetaryen bir diyet uyguluyordu. Et yemeyen rahipler, bal\u0131k gereksinimleri i\u00e7in 1400 y\u0131l\u0131n\u0131n ilk yar\u0131s\u0131nda yapay bir g\u00f6l in\u015fa ettirdi. O y\u0131llarda y\u0131lanbal\u0131\u011f\u0131 yeti\u015ftirilen g\u00f6l, bug\u00fcn do\u011fal bir g\u00f6l niteli\u011finde. Bu g\u00f6lde halen \u00e7e\u015fitli bal\u0131k t\u00fcrleri yeti\u015ftiriliyor.<\/p>\n

Manast\u0131r tarifiyle susaml\u0131 bisk\u00fcvi
\n<\/strong>Manast\u0131r ar\u015fivinde sakl\u0131 tariflerden haz\u0131rlanan susaml\u0131 bisk\u00fcviler, b\u00f6\u011f\u00fcrtlen, da\u011f \u00e7ile\u011fi re\u00e7elleri, y\u00f6resel ballar, do\u011fal maddelerle haz\u0131rlanan kozmetik \u00fcr\u00fcnler, kremler, parf\u00fcmler, bitkisel sabunlar, lik\u00f6rler. Hediyelik e\u015fyalar ise Aziz Romualdo\u2019nun inzivaya \u00e7ekildi\u011fi Eremo\u2019nun yan\u0131 ba\u015f\u0131ndaki ma\u011fazada sat\u0131l\u0131yor.<\/p>\n

Kestane \u015fenlikleri
\n<\/strong>Poppi ve \u00e7evresindeki orta\u00e7a\u011f kasabalar\u0131nda zeytinya\u011f\u0131 ve \u015farap \u00fcretiminin yan\u0131 s\u0131ra kestane \u00f6nemli bir yer tutuyor. Yaz\u0131n sona erdi\u011fi ve sonbahar\u0131n geldi\u011fi kas\u0131m ay\u0131ndan itibaren y\u00f6redeki bir\u00e7ok kasabada kestane \u015fenlikleri d\u00fczenleniyor. Talla\u2019da her y\u0131l 1 Kas\u0131m\u2019da kasaba meydan\u0131nda d\u00fczenlenen \u015fenlikte kestaneler, k\u00f6zde grappa\u2019yla alev alan ate\u015fte pi\u015firiliyor.<\/p>\n

Casentino\u2019da \u2018Castello\u2019 turu
\n<\/strong>Toscana\u2019n\u0131n tarihi dokusunda Poppi ve \u00e7evresindeki yerle\u015fimlerde vadiye h\u00fckmeden kaleler stratejik bir konuma sahip. Bir\u00e7ok noktadan g\u00f6r\u00fclebilen heybetli Poppi Kalesi, 12. ile 13. y\u00fczy\u0131llar aras\u0131nda in\u015fa edilmi\u015f. Bu kale, soylu Guidi ailesinin Casentino\u2019daki rezidans\u0131yd\u0131.<\/p>\n

Poppi\u2019nin tarihi merkezinden y\u00fcr\u00fcyerek on dakikada ula\u015f\u0131lan kalenin giri\u015finde Dante Alighieri\u2019nin bronzdan bir b\u00fcst\u00fc dikkat \u00e7ekiyor. Bu b\u00fcst, \u0130lahi Komedya<\/em>\u2019n\u0131n yazar\u0131n\u0131n Casentino ve bu vadiyle olan tutkusunu yans\u0131tan bir ayr\u0131nt\u0131.<\/p>\n

Taselli\u2019yi unutmay\u0131n
\n<\/strong>G\u00fcne yay\u0131lan orman y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fc\u015fleri ve tarihi ziyaretlerin sonras\u0131nda mola vermek ve yorgunluk atmak isteyenler Camaldoli\u2019nin merkezinde \u00fc\u00e7 ku\u015fakt\u0131r Taselli ailesinin i\u015fletti\u011fi a\u00e7\u0131k hava restoran\u0131nda soluklanabilir. Tasellilerin \u00fc\u00e7 ku\u015fakt\u0131r haz\u0131rlad\u0131\u011f\u0131 bir t\u00fcr pideyi \u00e7a\u011fr\u0131\u015ft\u0131ran \u201cschiacciata\u201d, geyik ve yaban domuzu etinden haz\u0131rlanan y\u00f6resel salamlar, k\u00f6y\u00fcn peynirleri, \u00e7evredeki ormanlardan toplanan mantarlarla haz\u0131rlanan makarnalar sunuluyor bu a\u00e7\u0131k hava<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

Etr\u00fcskler de ya\u015fad\u0131
\n<\/em><\/strong>Orman y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fc\u015flerine geri d\u00f6nersek Apeninlerin farkl\u0131 noktalar\u0131na \u00e7e\u015fitli orman parkurlar\u0131n\u0131 izleyerek g\u00fcnde en az d\u00f6rt, en \u00e7ok sekiz-on kilometrelik y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fc\u015fler planlayarak ula\u015fman\u0131z m\u00fcmk\u00fcn. \u00c7ok eski \u00e7a\u011flarda Ege\u2019den \u0130talya\u2019da Toscana b\u00f6lgesine g\u00f6\u00e7 eden Etr\u00fcsklerin de \u201cmistik\u201d niteli\u011finden etkilendikleri, bir tap\u0131nak kurduklar\u0131, avland\u0131klar\u0131 Camaldoli ormanlar\u0131nda kay\u0131n, \u00e7am ve kestane a\u011fa\u00e7lar\u0131 \u00e7o\u011funlukta.<\/p>\n

\"\"
Poppi kalesi, Toscana\u2019da stratejik bir alanda kurulu.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Sessizli\u011fe b\u00fcr\u00fcnen Apeninlerdeki bu orman yollar\u0131nda y\u00fcr\u00fcrken Massimilano ile Paola\u2019n\u0131n k\u00f6pe\u011fi Safira, sad\u0131k dostlar\u0131n\u0131 bir g\u00f6lge gibi izliyor. Yolu Rifugio Asqua\u2019ya d\u00fc\u015fen seyyahlarla g\u00fcnl\u00fck y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fc\u015flere \u00e7\u0131kan Safira\u2019y\u0131 Camaldoli ve yak\u0131n \u00e7evresinde herkes tan\u0131yor. Gri t\u00fcyl\u00fc bu gezgin k\u00f6pek, \u00e7ok kez yaban domuzuyla kar\u0131\u015ft\u0131r\u0131lsa da, orman y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fc\u015flerinde dostlar\u0131n\u0131 hi\u00e7 yaln\u0131z b\u0131rakm\u0131yor.<\/p>\n

Camaldoli ormanlar\u0131nda \u201c\u015eentieri dei tedeschi\/Almanlar\u0131n patikas\u0131\u201d diye an\u0131lan g\u00fczerg\u00e2h, sava\u015f d\u00f6neminde Alman askerlerine kar\u015f\u0131 m\u00fccadele ederken vurularak \u015fehit d\u00fc\u015fen y\u00f6re gen\u00e7lerinin an\u0131s\u0131n\u0131 ya\u015fat\u0131yor. Kay\u0131nlar\u0131n g\u00f6lge yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131 bu orman yolunda y\u00fcr\u00fcrken, \u00f6ld\u00fcr\u00fclen direni\u015f\u00e7i \u0130talyanlar\u0131n d\u00fc\u015ft\u00fckleri noktalarda ah\u015fap levhalara not d\u00fc\u015f\u00fclen isimlerine tan\u0131kl\u0131k ediyoruz. Bu do\u011fal park i\u00e7inde bir ba\u015fka orman yolu \u201cGotik patika\u201d ad\u0131n\u0131 ta\u015f\u0131yor. 1500 metre y\u00fcksekli\u011findeki tepelik alanlara ula\u015fan, bu g\u00fczerg\u00e2h biraz daha dik oldu\u011fu ve t\u0131rmanma gerektirdi\u011fi i\u00e7in daha g\u00fc\u00e7. Camaldoli\u2019de do\u011fayla ba\u015f ba\u015fa kalmay\u0131, sessizli\u011fi ke\u015ffetmeyi ve orman\u0131 dinlemeyi tercih edenlerin \u00fc\u00e7 saatlik tempolu bir y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fc\u015fle ula\u015ft\u0131\u011f\u0131 bir ba\u015fka u\u011frak noktas\u0131 da, 1520 metre y\u00fckseklikte, Apenin da\u011flar\u0131na tepeden bakan Poggi Scala.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Yolu 1905 y\u0131l\u0131nda Toscana\u2019da Casentino\u2019ya d\u00fc\u015fen Ella Noyes g\u00fcnl\u00fc\u011f\u00fcne \u201cApenin da\u011flar\u0131n\u0131n kalbinde Casentino diye adland\u0131r\u0131lan ye\u015fil ve bereketli vadi b\u00fcy\u00fck bir istiridye kabu\u011funu an\u0131msat\u0131yor\u201d diye not d\u00fc\u015fm\u00fc\u015f. Sessiz bir co\u011frafyan\u0131n aray\u0131\u015f\u0131ndaki Noyes\u2019un Casentino\u2019ya geli\u015finden bu yana y\u0131llar ge\u00e7se de bu b\u00f6lgenin s\u0131n\u0131rlar\u0131 i\u00e7indeki tarihi manast\u0131r, Aziz Romualdo\u2019nun 11. y\u00fczy\u0131lda inzivaya \u00e7ekildi\u011fi k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck kilise, manast\u0131r kompleksi […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":266,"featured_media":42937,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[141,38,222,29],"tags":[6350,6353,6351,6352,6354],"class_list":["post-42936","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-104-sayi","category-dergi-sayilari","category-tarih","category-toplum","tag-camaldoli","tag-castagno-miraglia","tag-ella-noyes","tag-etruskler","tag-traversari-golu"],"acf":[],"aioseo_notices":[],"aioseo_head":"\n\t\t\n\t\n\t\n\t\n\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t